In the dismal years following the breakdown of the imperial state, living conditions in the overcrowded capital of the first republic were dreadful: mass unemployment, shortage of food and housing, tuberculosis, alcoholism, social misery. The first free elections in 1919 lead to a social democratic majority in the city council and in 1922 Vienna separated from Lower Austria and became an independent Federal State: Red Vienna was born. On the ideological basis of Marxism the Social Democrats set out for an ambitious plan of remarkable reforms in the fields of health, education, culture and housing. The outstanding achievements in the years between 1922 and 1934 were the numerous social housing blocks which are still to be seen in contemporary Vienna. But Red Vienna did not only struggle for a better life situation of the working class, its utopian aim was to create a new society.

Itinerary

The tour starts with the most famous building complex of Red Vienna, the Karl-Marx-Hof in the 19^th district. The monumental block more than a kilometre long was designed to contain about 1.380 apartments. It also offers infrastructure facilities such as workshops, laundries, a dental clinic, nurseries, drugstores, libraries, shops, restaurants and public baths. From there we use public transport to get to the 5^th district. Along the Gürtel-Boulevard a whole borrow with many social houses was created, the so-called “Ring Boulevard” of the working class. After a short ride on the Gürtel we get to the spectacular Reumann-Hof. Its monumental façade and elegant courtyard surrounded by arcades as well as the numerous exquisite decorative elements evoke the architecture of historical palaces. 

Next to it lies the Metzleinstaler-Hof, the first municipal apartment block built in 1920, with its windows framed with coloured ceramic plates. Another hightlight is the  Herwegh-Hof with its beautiful green courtyards and a great number of appealing ornamental details such as nicely decorated bow windows and balconies. Crossing the intimate Chiavacci-Park we come to the Julius-Popp-Hof located on the Margaretengürtel. Just a few metres across the street lies and the imposing double-winged Matteotti-Hof  built in remembrance of the socialdemocratic politician Giacomo Matteotti murdered by the italian fascists in1924. 

After a walk through the lively 5^th district we will end our tour near the underground station Pilgramgasse (U4 line).

Practical information

MEETING POINT: we meet at the last station of the underground line U4 HEILIGENSTADT, exit: 12. Februar-Platz.

DURATION: 2,5 hours.

TICKETS FOR THE PUBLIC TRANSPORT: It is recommended to have tickets for the public transport ready before the tour starts.

SOME DIFFICULT WORDS: “Hof” means an apartment block with an inner courtyard. The “Ring” is the 19^th century representative boulevard of the high bourgeoisie which was built on the site of the ancient city walls.

FURTHER VISITS:

In the ancient laundry of Karl-Marx-Hof there is a small museum called "Das Rote Wien".

Also interesting may be the newly opened museum of the City of Vienna (Wien Museum) on Karlsplatz.

FURTHER READING: Eva Blau, The Architecture of Red Vienna 1919-1934, New York 1999.

Helmut Gruber, Red Vienna: Experiment in Working-Class Culture 1919-1934, New York, Oxford 1991.

The Red Vienna Sourcebook, edited by Rob McFarland and Ingo Zechner, Rochester, New York 2020.

(© all photos Reinhard Travnicek)